How to Control Ants in the Garden

Ants are attracted to gardens for several reasons, including the presence of food sources such as sugary substances, plant nectar, and other insects. Controlling ants in the garden requires a multi-faceted approach to disrupt their access to food and nesting areas. Here's a bullet-point solution along with tips to make it successful:

1. Remove Food Sources:

Clean up any food scraps, fallen fruits, or sugary substances in the garden. Store compost bins away from the garden area to avoid attracting ants.

2. Seal Entry Points:

Inspect the garden perimeter for cracks, gaps, or openings where ants might enter. Seal any entry points using caulk, weatherstripping, or other suitable materials.

3. Natural Repellents:

Use natural repellents such as diatomaceous earth, cinnamon, or coffee grounds around ant trails and entry points. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, basil, or lavender, which ants tend to avoid.

4. Ant Bait Stations:

Place ant bait stations strategically around the garden, especially near ant trails and nesting sites. Use commercially available ant baits or create homemade baits using borax and sugar water.

5. Physical Barriers:

Create physical barriers using substances like petroleum jelly or duct tape around plant stems or containers to prevent ants from climbing.

6. Regular Maintenance:

Maintain cleanliness in the garden by regularly removing debris, weeds, and excess vegetation. Trim branches and foliage away from the house to prevent ants from using them as bridges.

7. Monitor and Adjust:

Continuously monitor ant activity in the garden and adjust control methods accordingly. If one method proves ineffective, try combining different approaches or switching to alternative solutions.

8. Integrated Pest Management (IPM):

Implement an integrated pest management approach by combining cultural, biological, and chemical control methods. Focus on long-term prevention rather than relying solely on short-term solutions.

To make the control efforts successful:

1. Consistency: Be consistent in implementing control measures, as sporadic efforts may not yield desired results.

2. Patience: Ant control may take time, so be patient and persistent in your efforts.

3. Observation: Regularly observe ant activity and adjust strategies based on their behavior and effectiveness of control methods.

4. Education: Educate yourself about different ant species, their habits, and effective control techniques to make informed decisions.

5. Environmentally Friendly: Choose control methods that are environmentally friendly and safe for plants, pets, and beneficial insects in the garden.

How to Produce 10 Times More Fruits

Increasing fruit production by tenfold can be a challenging task, but here are some strategies to consider:

1. Select High-Yielding Varieties: Choose fruit tree varieties known for high yields. Research and select cultivars that are well-suited to your climate, soil, and growing conditions.

2. Optimize Soil Health: Conduct soil tests to determine nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. Amend soil as needed with organic matter, compost, and appropriate fertilizers to create optimal growing conditions for fruit trees.

3. Proper Planting and Spacing: Ensure proper spacing between fruit trees to prevent competition for resources such as sunlight, water, and nutrients. Follow recommended planting guidelines for each type of fruit tree.

4. Pruning and Training: Regular pruning helps maintain the shape and health of fruit trees, encourages fruit production, and improves air circulation and sunlight penetration. Learn proper pruning techniques for each type of fruit tree and prune accordingly.

5. Pollination: Ensure adequate pollination by attracting pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and birds to your orchard. Consider planting flowering plants and providing nesting sites to support pollinator populations.

6. Water Management: Provide consistent and adequate water to fruit trees, especially during critical stages such as flowering, fruit set, and fruit development. Install efficient irrigation systems to minimize water waste.

7. Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Implement IPM strategies to control pests, diseases, and weeds in your orchard. Monitor for signs of pest and disease damage regularly and use cultural, biological, and chemical control methods as needed.

8. Fruit Thinning: Thin excess fruit to promote larger, healthier fruits and prevent branches from becoming overburdened. Thinning helps allocate resources more effectively and reduces the risk of branch breakage.

9. Seasonal Care: Provide appropriate care throughout the growing season, including mulching, weed control, and monitoring for signs of stress or nutrient deficiencies. Address any issues promptly to support optimal fruit production.

10. Continuous Learning: Stay informed about the latest research, techniques, and best practices for fruit production. Attend workshops, conferences, and extension programs to expand your knowledge and skills as a fruit grower.

By implementing these strategies and adapting them to your specific circumstances, you can work towards significantly increasing fruit production in your orchard. Remember that patience, consistency, and ongoing care are essential for achieving long-term success.

When to Harvest Broccoli

The timing for harvesting broccoli depends on the variety you're growing and the environmental conditions. However, here are some general guidelines:

1. Central Head Size: The main indicator for harvesting broccoli is the size of the central head. It should be firm, compact, and have a deep green color. For most varieties, the central head is ready to harvest when it's about 6 to 8 inches in diameter. Harvest before the florets start to open or turn yellow.

2. Days to Maturity: Check the seed packet or plant label for the "days to maturity" information. This will give you a rough estimate of when the broccoli should be ready for harvest. However, it's essential to monitor the plants closely, as environmental conditions can affect maturity.

3. Weather Conditions: Broccoli prefers cool weather. If you're growing it in a temperate climate, aim to harvest before the weather gets too warm. High temperatures can cause the heads to bolt (go to seed) prematurely.

4. Regular Checking: Once your broccoli plants start forming heads, check them regularly for size and firmness. Don't wait too long to harvest, as overripe broccoli can become tough and bitter.

5. Side Shoots: Some broccoli varieties produce side shoots after the main head is harvested. Allow these side shoots to grow to a suitable size before harvesting. Continuously harvest side shoots throughout the growing season to encourage more production.

Overall, it's better to harvest broccoli a bit early rather than too late, as younger heads tend to be more tender and flavorful. Keep an eye on your plants and harvest them when the central head reaches an optimal size and condition.

Harvesting broccoli requires some care to ensure you get the best-tasting and most nutritious heads. Here's how you can do it:

1. Monitor Growth: Keep an eye on your broccoli plants as they grow. The central head of broccoli should be firm and tightly closed, typically around 6 to 8 inches in diameter, depending on the variety.

2. Check Regularly: Once the central head reaches a good size, check it regularly. If left too long, the florets may begin to open, and the taste may deteriorate.

3. Cut the Main Head: When the central head is ready for harvesting, use a sharp knife to cut it about 5 to 6 inches below the head. Make a clean cut at a slant to prevent water from collecting on the cut surface.

4. Side Shoots: After cutting the main head, continue to monitor the plant. Often, side shoots will develop smaller heads. Harvest these in the same way, allowing them to grow to a desirable size before cutting.

5. Timing: It's crucial to harvest broccoli before the florets begin to open and turn yellow. Once this happens, the taste and texture may not be as good.

6. Leave the Plant: After harvesting the main head and any side shoots, leave the plant in the ground if you're growing a variety that produces side shoots. These can provide you with additional smaller heads for several weeks.

7. Storage: If you're not consuming the broccoli immediately, store it in the refrigerator. Place it in a perforated plastic bag to maintain humidity and freshness. Freshly harvested broccoli can last for about a week in the refrigerator.

By following these steps, you can ensure a successful broccoli harvest with delicious, nutritious heads.

How to Grow Tons of Dagon Fruit

Growing dragon fruit, also known as pitaya, can be a rewarding endeavor. Here are some steps to help you grow a plentiful harvest of dragon fruit:

1. Choose the Right Variety: There are several varieties of dragon fruit available, with different fruit colors and flavors. Select a variety that suits your climate and preferences.

2. Select a Suitable Location: Dragon fruit plants thrive in warm, sunny locations. Choose a spot in your garden or yard that receives full sun for most of the day. Ensure that the location has well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging, as dragon fruit plants are susceptible to root rot.

3. Prepare the Soil: Dragon fruit plants prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH level of 6 to 7. Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve its texture and fertility.

4. Planting: Dragon fruit can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or seedlings. If using cuttings, allow them to dry for a few days before planting to prevent rotting. Plant the cuttings or seedlings in well-draining soil, ensuring that the base of the plant is above the soil level to prevent rot.

5. Support Structures: Dragon fruit plants are climbers and require support structures to grow. Install a sturdy trellis or support system near the planting area to provide support for the growing vines.

6. Watering: While dragon fruit plants are drought-tolerant once established, they require regular watering during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Water the plants deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot.

7. Fertilization: Fertilize dragon fruit plants regularly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer high in phosphorus to promote flowering and fruiting. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they can promote vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.

8. Pruning: Prune dragon fruit plants regularly to remove dead or diseased growth and to promote branching and fruit production. Remove any suckers or side shoots that emerge from the base of the plant to maintain a single-stemmed structure.

9. Pest and Disease Control: Keep an eye out for common pests such as aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites, and treat them promptly with organic or chemical insecticides if necessary. Additionally, ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases such as anthracnose and stem rot.

10. Harvesting: Dragon fruit typically takes 4 to 6 months to mature and produce fruit. Harvest the fruit when it reaches full color and gives slightly to gentle pressure. Cut the fruit from the plant using a sharp knife, taking care to avoid damaging the stems or surrounding growth.

By following these steps and providing proper care, you can grow an abundance of dragon fruit in your garden or yard. Happy gardening!

Epsom Salt in the Garden

Epsom salt, chemically known as magnesium sulfate, can offer several benefits to your garden when used appropriately:

1. Magnesium and Sulfur Source: Epsom salt is a natural source of magnesium and sulfur, both of which are essential nutrients for plant growth and development. Magnesium aids in chlorophyll production, which is crucial for photosynthesis, while sulfur is necessary for the formation of amino acids and vitamins within the plant.

2. Nutrient Absorption: Magnesium helps plants absorb other nutrients more effectively, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. This can lead to healthier, more vigorous growth and better overall plant performance.

3. Stress Reduction: Epsom salt can help alleviate stress in plants caused by deficiencies, environmental factors (such as heat or drought stress), or transplant shock. This can result in improved resilience and vitality.

4. Increased Flowering and Fruit Production: Magnesium plays a role in the development of flowers and fruits. Using Epsom salt can encourage more abundant flowering and fruiting in certain plants, leading to higher yields.

To use Epsom salt in your garden effectively:

1. Soil Preparation: Before planting, you can incorporate Epsom salt into the soil to improve its magnesium and sulfur content. Mix it thoroughly into the soil at a rate of about 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of water or follow the specific instructions on the product label.

2. Foliar Spray: You can also use Epsom salt as a foliar spray to deliver magnesium directly to the plant's leaves. Dissolve about 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and spray it onto the foliage, ensuring thorough coverage. This method can be particularly beneficial for addressing magnesium deficiencies quickly.

3. Frequency: It's generally recommended to apply Epsom salt to your garden once or twice during the growing season, depending on the specific needs of your plants and soil conditions. Overuse of Epsom salt can lead to excessive buildup of magnesium in the soil, which may cause nutrient imbalances over time.

4. Observation: Monitor your plants closely after applying Epsom salt to assess their response. Look for signs of improvement in growth, flowering, and overall health. Adjust your application rates or frequency accordingly based on the results.

Remember to conduct a soil test periodically to determine the nutrient levels in your soil accurately. While Epsom salt can be beneficial for many plants, it's essential to use it judiciously and in conjunction with other fertilization practices for optimal results.

Brazilian Spinach

Growing Brazilian spinach, also known as Sissoo spinach or Sambu spinach, is relatively easy and can be done in a variety of climates. Here's a guide to help you grow Brazilian spinach:

1. Climate and Soil:

Brazilian spinach thrives in warm, tropical climates but can also grow in temperate regions.

It prefers well-draining soil rich in organic matter. A pH level between 6.0 and 7.0 is ideal.

2. Propagation:

You can propagate Brazilian spinach from seeds or cuttings. Seeds can be directly sown into the soil or started indoors and transplanted later. Cuttings can be taken from mature plants.

If using seeds, sow them about ¼ to ½ inch deep in the soil.

3. Planting:

Plant Brazilian spinach in a location that receives partial to full sunlight. It can tolerate some shade but grows best with plenty of sun. Space the plants about 12 to 18 inches apart to allow room for growth. Water the newly planted seeds or cuttings thoroughly and keep the soil consistently moist until they establish.

4. Care:

Brazilian spinach is relatively low-maintenance but requires regular watering, especially during dry periods. Keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging. Mulching around the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Fertilize the plants every 4-6 weeks with a balanced fertilizer to promote healthy growth. Pinch off any flowers that appear to encourage continued leaf production.

5. Harvesting:

You can start harvesting Brazilian spinach leaves when the plant reaches about 6 to 8 inches in height. Harvest the outer leaves first, leaving the inner leaves to continue growing. Regular harvesting promotes bushier growth and prolongs the plant's productivity.

6. Pests and Diseases:

Brazilian spinach is relatively resistant to pests and diseases but may occasionally be affected by aphids, caterpillars, or leaf miners. Monitor the plants regularly and treat any infestations promptly. Avoid overhead watering to reduce the risk of fungal diseases.

7. Propagation and Maintenance:

Brazilian spinach readily self-seeds, so you may find new seedlings appearing around the base of mature plants. You can transplant these seedlings to new locations or thin them out as needed. Prune the plants occasionally to maintain their shape and encourage fresh growth.

By following these guidelines, you should be able to successfully grow Brazilian spinach and enjoy its nutritious leaves in your garden or containers.

How to Get Your Figs on Tree to Ripen Faster

There are a few methods you can try to encourage figs to ripen faster on the tree:

1. Prune the Tree: Prune the tree to allow more sunlight to reach the figs. Sunlight helps with ripening.

2. Thinning: Thin out excess fruit. This allows the tree to focus its energy on ripening the remaining figs.

3. Watering: Ensure the tree receives consistent watering, especially during dry periods. However, avoid overwatering as it can lead to fruit splitting.

4. Fertilization: Apply a balanced fertilizer to the soil around the tree, following the manufacturer's instructions. This provides necessary nutrients for fruit development.

5. Harvesting: Harvest ripe figs promptly. Leaving ripe figs on the tree can encourage the development of more fruit.

6. Wrap Figs: Some gardeners wrap figs in paper or cloth bags to help retain heat and humidity, which can accelerate ripening.

7. Ethylene Exposure: Place ripe bananas or apples near the figs. These fruits release ethylene gas, which can stimulate ripening in figs.

Remember that figs ripen at different rates depending on the variety and environmental conditions. While these methods can help, patience is often required for optimal ripening.

How to Promote Branching and Fruiting by Pinching

Promoting branching and fruiting through pinching is a common practice in gardening, especially for plants like tomatoes, peppers, and herbs. Here's how you can effectively do it:

1. Understand the Plant: Different plants respond differently to pinching. Some may require more aggressive pruning, while others may need only minimal pinching to encourage branching and fruiting. Know the specific needs of your plant before starting.

2. Identify the Right Time: Pinching should typically be done when the plant is actively growing. Avoid pinching during periods of stress, such as extreme heat or cold, as it may further stress the plant.

3. Pinch at the Right Location: Identify where to pinch based on the growth habit of the plant. For most plants, you'll want to pinch at the growing tips or the points where new growth emerges. This encourages lateral branching and more flower/fruit production.

4. Use Clean Tools: Always use clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors to make precise cuts. This reduces the risk of damaging the plant and introducing diseases.

5. Pinch Properly: Pinch off the tip of the stem just above a set of leaves or leaf nodes. This encourages the plant to send out new shoots from the leaf nodes, resulting in more branches and ultimately more fruit.

6. Be Selective: Avoid over-pinching, as this can weaken the plant and reduce overall productivity. Aim to remove only the terminal growth tips or any excessive growth that is inhibiting airflow and light penetration.

7. Consistency is Key: Pinching should be done regularly throughout the growing season, especially for fast-growing plants. Monitor the plant's growth and continue pinching as needed to maintain a balanced shape and encourage continuous fruiting.

8. Provide Support: As the plant branches out and produces fruit, provide adequate support such as stakes or cages to prevent the weight of the fruit from bending or breaking the branches.

9. Monitor for Pests and Diseases: Keep an eye on your plants for any signs of pests or diseases, especially after pruning. Proper sanitation and pest control measures will help ensure healthy growth and abundant fruiting.

10. Adjust as Needed: Pay attention to how your plant responds to pinching and adjust your pruning strategy accordingly. Every plant and growing environment is different, so be flexible and adapt as needed.

By following these steps and being attentive to your plant's needs, you can effectively promote branching and fruiting through pinching, leading to a healthier and more productive garden.

5 Insects That Can Destroy Your Tomatoes

What Are Those Insects?

1. Cutworms

What are they:

Cutworms feed at night on seedlings. They “cut” or eat through the stem at soil level or an inch or less above the soil. Cutworms aren’t exactly worms — they are the larvae of certain moths. They only emerge at night and can be difficult to spot. Cutworms kill tomato plants by snipping them right in half.

What to do about them:

Prevent cutworm damage by making a paper collar that fits around your seedlings. Just take newspaper or cardboard and fold it into an inch-wide strip. Use tape to make a collar around the plant, leaving about two to three inches around the stem. Remove the collar once the plant has several sets of leaves. You can also cut the bottom off of a paper cup and slide the open-bottom cup over the seedling to prevent cutworm damage.

2. Hornworms

What are they:

Tomato or tobacco hornworms can decimate mature tomato plants in one night. These crafty insects are large green worms about two to three inches long with tiny horns on their head and ridged bodies. Hornworms are perfectly camouflaged so they look exactly like a tomato stem or branch, making them difficult to spot. They emerge at night, eat all the leaves off the plant and move on to the next section or plant.

What to do about them:

Nature provides the best control for tomato hornworm in the form of a parasitic wasp that lays her eggs on the body of the hornworm. As the wasp’s larvae hatch, they eat into the living worm and eventually kill it. Natural methods to control tomato hornworms include planting marigolds around tomatoes. The strong marigold scent repels them naturally.

3. Colorado Potato Beetle

What are they:

Colorado potato beetles are native to the United States. They love plants in the nightshade family, especially potatoes. If they can’t find potatoes, however, they will gravitate towards tomatoes, eggplant and other nightshade family vegetables. The beetles are about the size of dimes, with yellow-and-black striped wings. The adults use their mouthparts to chew holes in the leaves of tomato plants. Females lay clusters of bright gold or yellow eggs underneath the leaves. When the larvae hatch, they spread out among the tomato leaves, easily eating their way through the entire plant. Larvae are red to dark pink with black spots and frequently hide under the leaves during the day.

What to do about them:

Use a pesticide with pyrethrins to spray on your tomato plants. This method works best in early spring before the larvae mature.

4. Stink Bugs

What are they:

The brown marmorated stink bug isn’t only an annoyance inside the home. These insects also use their needle-like mouthparts to suck the juice right out of your tomatoes. They can be spotted with the naked eye on your tomatoes, or you can see their damage in the yellow, uneven spots that appear on the ripening tomatoes. When you slice into a yellow-spotted tomato, white sections appear under the yellow spots, which distinguish stink bug damage from fungal or viral problems.

What to do about them:

Any brand of pesticides makes stink bug traps that harmlessly attract the insects to the trap and away from your tomatoes.

5. Spider Mites

What are they:

Spider mites are difficult to see because they’re so tiny, but you can clearly see the damage they leave behind. Mites scuttle along the stems and leaves, piercing the leaves to feed on the juices. Eventually, tomato leaves look stippled and bronzed, with damage to the plant’s leaf structure.

What to do about them:

The best method for treating spider mites on tomato plants is to use a neem oil spray. Another option is insecticidal soap, which also offers a treatment for spider mites.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Powdery Mildew on Tomatoes

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Powdery mildew is easy to find on tomato plants as it looks like someone brushed the leaves with a white powder. You might find white spots on tomato leaves or even the stem. If you let the fungi thrive it will turn your tomato leaves yellow and then brown.

What causes it:

Powdery mildew on tomatoes is more common in greenhouses than an outdoor garden because of the lack of air flow and high humidity.

What to do about it:

The best way to prevent powdery mildew on tomato plants is to use a preventative spray formulated with sulfur.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Viral Diseases

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Viral diseases mainly attack the tomatoes themselves. You might find black spots on tomatoes, or weird stripes on them. Don’t confuse signs of disease for just how some heirloom tomatoes look with natural stripes.

What causes it:

Many of these viruses spread when plants are stressed by heat, drought or poor soil.

What to do about it:

If you’ve read through all of these tomato problems and think your tomatoes may be suffering from a viral disease, spray your tomato plants with neem oil. Good soil management and using organic fertilizer for tomatoes also helps keep your plants healthy, which can help them naturally resist viruses better.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Verticilium Wilt

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Yellow blotches appear on the lower leaves. As the blotches spread, the veins in the leaves turn brown. After the leaves turn brown, they fall off. The disease progresses up the stem until the plant is stunted.

What causes it:

A fungus that lives in the soil, Verticilliurn albo-atrum, attacks the roots and travels up the xylem tubes with water. It then prevents the normal flow of water and nutrients to the leaves.

What to do about it:

Once plants are infected, there isn’t much you can do to treat Verticillium wilt. Rotate your crops, because the fungus can live for long periods in the soil and even live among weeds such as ragweed. Choosing wilt-resistant varieties to plant is the best way to prevent Verticillium wilt.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Fusarium Wilt

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Your tomato plants look fine, when suddenly, they start to wilt. At first, only one side may be affected, but then the whole plant is wilting. You water them, and the problem gets worse. Within a day or two, the plant is dead!

What causes it:

A nasty fungus called Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. lycopersici that attacks the vascular system of the plant, roughly equivalent to a human’s veins. The fungus destroys the xylem tubes, which transport water and nutrients up from the roots and into the leaves.

What to do about it:

In the case of fusarium wilt, the best defense is a good offense. Rotate your crops so tomatoes aren’t planted in the same section of the garden each year. Purchase wilt-resistant varieties if you’ve lost tomatoes to wilting diseases in the past, since the fungus can overwinter in garden and lawn soils.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Septoria Leaf Spot

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

After the plants begin to develop tomatoes, the lower leaves break out in yellow spots. Within the yellow spots, dark gray centers with dark borders appear. Black dots appear in the center of the spots. Foliage dies and falls off.

What causes it:

A fungus called Septoria lycopersici thatinfects foliage.

What to do about it:

Avoid watering tomatoes from the top, as the spray can force the spores developing on the leaves back into the soil and continue the disease cycle. 

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Early Blight

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

You’ll find brown spots on tomato leaves, starting with the older ones. Each spot starts to develop rings, like a target. Leaves turn yellow around the brown spots, then the entire leaf turns brown and falls off. Eventually the plant may have few, if any, leaves.

What causes it:

A fungus called Alternaria solani. This fungus can live in the soil over the winter, so if your plants have had problems before like this, and you’ve planted tomatoes in the exact same spot, chances are good the same thing will happen to your plants this year.

What to do about it:

Crop rotation prevents new plants from contracting the disease. Avoid planting tomatoes, eggplants or peppers in the same spot each year as these can all be infected with early blight. A garden fungicide can treat infected plants.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Anthracnose

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

As tomatoes ripen, a dark, bull’s-eye circle appears on the blossom end or bottom of the tomato. The spot is sunken and mushy to the touch. When you slice into the tomato, there’s a black mushy spot underneath that looks like rot.

What causes it:

A fungus called Colletotrichum phomoides. The fungus loves hot, moist weather and is often spread by overhead irrigation, sprinklers striking infected soil and splashing the fungus up onto the plants, and infected plants.

What to do about it:

Switch your watering methods so water drips on the roots, not the leaves of the plants. Harvest tomatoes when ripe, since overly ripe tomatoes tend to contract the fungus more than tomatoes in the early stages of ripening.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Bacterial Canker

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Often confused with cloudy spot disease, bacterial cankers start as yellow dots on ripening red tomatoes. If you look carefully at the spots, using a magnifying glass if you have one, you’ll see a dark, birds-eye-type rim around each of the yellowed spots. This is what distinguishes bacterial canker from cloudy spot disease.

What causes it:

A bacteria called Clavibacter michiganensis. The bacteria occurs naturally but can be brought into the garden on infected plants or tools. Once it gets into the soil, rainwater splashes it up onto the plants. If there’s an open sore, such as insect damage or a leaf missing from pruning, it can enter the plant and infest it.

What to do about it:

Remove the infected plants immediately and do not plant tomatoes again in that soil for at least three years. Rotate your crops regularly to prevent these and other diseases from taking hold in the soil. Don’t compost the dead plants — instead, put them in the trash to avoid spreading the bacteria.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Leaf Roll

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Mature tomato plants suddenly curl their leaves, especially older leaves near the bottom. Leaves roll up from the outside towards the center. Sometimes up to 75% of the plant is affected.

What causes it:

High temperatures, wet soil and too much pruning often result in leaf roll.

What to do about it:

Although it looks ugly, leaf roll won’t affect tomato development, so you will still get edible tomatoes from your plants. Avoid over-pruning and make sure the soil drains excess water away.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Catfacing

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

Catfacing makes tomatoes appear deformed. The blossom end is rippled, bumpy and lumpy.

What causes it:

Plants pollinated during cool evenings, when the temperatures hover around 50 to 55 degrees F, are subject to catfacing. Blossoms fall off when temperatures drop too low. However, if the flower is pollinating before the petals begin to drop off, some stick to the developing tomato. This creates the lumps and bumps typical of catfacing.

What to do about it:

If possible, plant tomatoes a little later in the season. Make sure the weather has truly warmed up enough to support proper tomato development. Devices such as a “Wall of Water”, a circle of water-filled plastic tubes, raise temperatures near the tomato and help keep them high enough on cold nights to prevent cold-related problems. Using black-plastic spread on the soil can also help. As the plastic heats during the day, it releases the heat back towards the plants at night. Black plastic can be used as a temporary measure until the temperatures warm up enough that it’s no longer needed.

Common Tomato Plant Problems - Poor Fruit Set

How to Fix It

What it looks like:

You have some flowers but not many tomatoes. The tomatoes you do have on the plant are small or tasteless.

What causes it:

Too much nitrogen in the soil encourages plenty of green leaves but not many flowers. If there aren’t enough flowers, there won’t be enough tomatoes. Another cause may be planting tomatoes too closely together. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, meaning that each flower contains both the male (stamens) and female (pistils) parts. Wind typically pollinates tomatoes, but if plants are too close together, the wind can’t reach the flowers.

What to do about it:

Have your soil tested. If you’re planting tomatoes in the spring, leave at least two feet or more between plants so that good air circulation can help pollinate them. If your plants are already in the garden, you can simply shake the flowering branches to simulate wind and get the pollen from the stamens to the pistils.